Table saw versus bandsaw

[trb136]

I have a question about cutting 5  degree angles on boxes...The saw i have is not the best and inconsistency makes me go. bald....    Can anyone give me advice on a better way..equipment advice...anything will help...Thanks Tim

[jmck]

Tim,
I have had the same issues with my cheapie table I have. I found a friend that has a real contractor grade table saw. It has a solid bed and it has the power to really cut anything. Sounds like its time to be one of those fair weather friends like we all have------- yourself. Beg---someone you know that may have one---its the ticket as far as consistancy goes !!!

[Frozen Crow]

I use a bandsaw with a 3/4" blade.  Table saw would work just fine (and I have done a few on there), but I feel the bandsaw is safer.

Lee

[Bulldogmikey]

Depends on budget, Lee has a very good band saw. They are awesome, while a cheap band saw is not worth the trouble. A good tablesaw can be had for $500. and if  you use proper push block and shop safety is probably the best bet.

Mike

[Frozen Crow]

Mike is right.  Does depend on budget.  I would not buy a cheap bandsaw.  You will be dissappointed.  If I had to choose just one, I too would buy the tablesaw.  It is more "versatile" for call making.  There are some cuts though that I absolutely prefer to do on the bandsaw.

Lee

[Blackfalcon]

Tim, My feeling is a good solid table saw is the heart of a wood working shop. You should be able to find a good quality used saw, such as the old cast iron 10"Craftsman table saw if you keep an eye on Craigslist or even local pawn shops,classified adds etc.Dewalt, Ridgid saws are pretty good, some of these can be found as contractor saws, more on the portable side but with enough power to do what you need. For lighter horsepower saws, you want a quality thin kerf blade so the motor doesn't have to work as hard, and your motor will last longer, (I use a  good Freud blade). You also want a good quality fence. Miter gauges are sometimes cheesy on smaller saws, it is nice to choose one with grooves an aftermarket miter gauge will fit, (some of the Makita's had an off size miter slot).
 

[jmck]

Another note as was mentioned earlier in another post---a cheap bansaw is totally-totally-totally worthless----I mean worthless. I got one and cannot even strip out my inlays with it. On a tables saw---a good table and a real good fence is a must not to mention the extra cutting power they provide. 

[Blackfalcon]

Seems to me I remember Neil Cost using a C-clamp to hold his fence where he wanted it, we are very fortunate to have the choices we do today! Not too long ago, the only table saws I remember seeing used on job sites were Craftsman and, (preferably) Delta. They were heavy and not very portable for one man to handle.
As far as band saws, for cutting blanks accurately, I would want something with at least a 1/2 inch blade capacity, 3/4 inch would be even better. I use a 10" Craftsman, which works well for cutting paddle stock and profiles on my boxes. It does have good quality roller bearing guides, adjustable,which help with blade "wander".It has to be tuned and have a sharp quality blade for consistent cutting. I feel this saw is too light for re-sawing, such as cutting blanks,  a 14 inch saw at least would be better suited to that task.

[trb136]

Well if i can sell a call or two and be a good boy maybe Santa will bring me a table Saw...LOL...I am gonna research some now....

[Ozark Custom Calls]

I love my powermatic 3 and would recommend it to anyone, butttttttt I did start out on an old craftsman like stated before and it worked out good too.

Richard

[Frozen Crow]

I have a craftsman professional table saw that has worked real well for me.  I think they are in the $600 range.  I know craftsman sometimes gets a bad wrap, but I have had nothing but good experiences with it for 5+ years.

Lee

[CCCalls]

To me a good table saw is the backbone of my shop.
One problem with most of the cheaper "contractor" type table saws is in the table insert. Most have a very large opening where the blade comes through, and this makes them very dangerous for cutting smaller pieces which have a tendancy to fall down in the opening, causing binding and kickback. The simple remedy to this problem is to make a zero clearance insert.
Another problem with the cheaper saws is the rip fence. Most are cheaply built and are nearly impossible to keep lined up. In my early years starting out, I improved the cheap fence I had by building a shop made "T" square fence, that would automaticaly line itself every time it was reset.
The other way to improve the cheaper saws is to buy high quality saw blades.
There's tons of other things that can be done, but these three things I mentioned can make working with a lower grade saw bearable.

Tim.

[misfire]

I started out in my wood working career with a cheap bench top tablesaw. Once my skills and intrigue grew, I opted up to a contractor grade saw, still on the cheap side. I sold it last year and got the Grizzly Hybrid saw and absolutely love it. The fence is awesome, as is the power in the unit with little to no lag in the blade even on the heaviest boards. I use the tablesaw for about 90% of the cuts I make in my calls. The bandsaw does get some use, but the majority is on the tablesaw

[Custom Caller]

I use a bandsaw with a 3/4" blade.  Table saw would work just fine (and I have done a few on there), but I feel the bandsaw is safer.

Lee

If you want a 6" base, use a 8 or 9" piece of wood so you don't have to get so close to the blade with your fingers on a table saw. Neither one is safe if you get your finger cought in it.

[Frozen Crow]

It is cutting the sides of a box call that makes me a little nervous on the table saw.  It is easier to work with small pieces on the bandsaw.