Recommended Box Call Finishes

[Black Dog Blue]

Gentleman – I have been a silent observer to this forum for some time and have learned a great deal about call making from your posts.  I’m looking for some advice on which finish/sealer works best on custom box calls.  I am relatively new to call making but make calls similar to the Cost boat paddle.  I have experimented with several different finishes but have come away unsatisfied with the results.  My finishing trials have consisted of water, alcohol and tung oil based finishes, some of the best on the market.  But the issue I am having is the rails will get gummy/tacky after the call is played a while.  I avoid finishing the top ¼” of the body but the gumminess still occurs?   

The frustrating part is the calls sound good before the finish is applied?  I do not think it is my wood selections b/c I am using commercially dried Butternut, Cherry, Mahogany and Walnut for bottoms with cedar, sassafras and walnut for lids.  Also, I use blue carpenter’s chalk which seems to be wax free.  It seems as if the fiction from playing the call causes the finish to gum up? Have any of you guys experienced this?

Any insights would be very much appreciated.

[jmck]

Al's on the money
Deft only here !!

[GR8CALLS]

Deft is my choice. There are several sheens you can choose from.

Bill

[West Augusta]

I only know one call maker that uses something other than Deft.

Post some of your work Black Dog Blue. We would love to see it and welcome to the Roost.

[fargobox]

I know of at least 4 other callmakers who don't use deft and I happen to be one of those oddballs    I, along with the others use either tung oil, or tru oil and have great success.  There really isn't anything out there that will make the call waterproof and while I know that isn't what we are focused on, I don't think it matters all that much what is used as long as it dries hard, has the sheen the callmaker or customer wants and doesn't affect the sound.  So far for me anyway, it's all been good on all accounts.

It would be helpfiul if you could show some pics of the issue you describe, that way we may be able to see something you are missing. 

And, like Steve says, post some of your work, we welcome you and would enjoy sharing.

[TLSelf]

I've tried them all myself but the last few years I have used either tung oil or a wipe-on poly.  Typically I will apply 2 or 3 coats of tung oil, with a light sanding between coats, and one or two coats of the wipe-on poly on top of that.   I use the blue painters tape to mask off the rails and the bottom of the paddle.   I hit the rails with a very light 220 grit after removing the tape to make sure there is no tape residue left.   I've never had a problem with the tung oil or the wipe-on poly gumming up.

Todd

[Austy]

Not that I make a ton of boxes but for those that I have I've used Tru Oil with no issues.

[B-Ready]

Another vote for Deft here. Tru-oil, Tung oil and even Danish oil works well also. Post some pic's and Welcome to the Roost! 

[ferocious calls]

I have had good luck using a cabinet laquer from sherwin williams. Once it dries it won't gum up. T60 F72 low VOC satin finish. Very good water resistance. Wear a respirator if you try it. Good Luck.

[Black Dog Blue]

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

I think I might have identified the problem. First, the tape I’ve been using to cover rails and lids must have been old or was compromised by heat. After the finish was applied, I had been post sanding with 220 grit but must have not removed the tackiness from the tape. This time, I re-sanded with vigor and got the small globs, one’s I could not see, off the playing surfaces. I re-chalked the box and let it rip until the chalk wore down. No issues. Second, sounds like lacquer is the preferred finish but not the only one. I really like the look of Waterlox sealer/finisher but sounds as if I need to punt.

As I said earlier, I’m new to call making and love the challenge of searching for the sound. I’m primarily experimenting with long calls and variants of popular designs.    However, my trials and errors helped take four turkeys this past season.

Next time, I will not scratch my head too long before asking for advice. Thanks again.

Pic included

[TRKYHTR]

Like was previously mentioned I don't understand how the finish gums up the playing surface. None of the finish, no matter what type you use, should ever get on the top of the rails or underside of the lid. I don't even like putting my hands on that area because of the oils from my hands. Good luck finding what works for you. I use deft satin on my box calls. You responded while I was making my post so I'll add a little. I don't tape my playing surfaces for that reason. I don't want any of that sticky tape residue to get on my playing surface. I just make sure that not of the finish gets on those areas. It's not hard to keep it off those areas when you are spraying deft.

TRKYHTR

[strutnrut]

http://www.velvitproducts.com/products.html 

I been trying this out not any faster than Deft.

[trb136]

What Al Said!!

[firedup]

Tried many over time.  Never satisfied with lacquer as a good durable field finish.  Acrylics ok.  Spar urethane works well for that but can be a pain to apply.  Pretty much a hand applied tung oil finish for me.  Another good spray finish, especially for pots / trumpets is krylon crystal clear triple thick.  You can really lay it on thick by design in 1 coat and gives that deep, deep wet look.  If you can find it.  I don,t see it on the shelf too much anymore.  Repeat what the others said.  Never get any finish on top of rails or underside of lid.  Yes, the blue painters tape is the berries.

[doublespurs21]

when i spray my calls , i turn them upside down on two pegs, never have any trouble with over spray. chris