Bow shooting question

[Porter]

Ok expert bow people here.  I was out shooting my arrows with my broadheads on.  I've never had an issue in the past, but this year, they are going high and left.  My field points are shooting dead on and I'm just baffled. 

I'm assuming I'll shoot again next weekend and make sure it wasn't just me that day, but both my fixed and mechanicals were shooting high/left. 

Last year I know my g5 montecs were dead on!  I was switching back and forth between my practice broadheads and my field points.  The fixed broadheads were the worst.  I guess I should have been shooting with the practice heads all along!

As much as I shot, I'm pretty sure they are off this year.  Bow is all intact and everything feels and looks good too 

[drenalinld]

It is very common for broadheads to have a different point of impact from field points. This is due to the bow being slightly out of tune or you placing a little torque on the grip and the broadhead multiplying the error. If it is a twin cam or cam-and-a-half bow, just a little string stretch from season to season can cause the cams to be a little out of time changing the point of impact and this will be dramatically multiplied with a fixed blade such as the Montec G5. Does the arrow fly true from realease or do you see the tail end wobble and then stabilize? Do you use a fall-away style rest? I ask this because fall-away style rests minimized contact time with the arrow and rest reducing hand torque issues. Fixed blades will be the hardest to tune. One thing that usually helps is to get the broadhead blades aligned with the vanes or feathers. To check yourself for left to right grip torque, come to full draw then look up the string over the top cam and be certain the string is straight. Twist your grip hand side to side to see what torque on the grip will do the the string alignment where it goes over the cam. It will be easier to have someone else check it for you, but you can certainly do it by yourself, just keep your finger behind the trigger.

Also, I have found the practice heads to fly a little differently than the real broadheads. If a bow is tuned perfectly and shooter form is true, all will hit in the same spot if they are the same weight, at least at hunting distances.

[Gobbler Commander]

I shot bare bow for years high and to the left I would ajust my arms and bow up and in to the sight plain point of aim is off .

[jmck]

the way you shoot a gun Porter----
watch your TOES
 

[GR8CALLS]

 I always paper tune my bow each year because of what was stated previously.....string stretch. Even w/ todays high tech materials you will see it. As stated, check you timing/tiller and your nocking point. Timing may not be off but nocking points can change. If using a release??....punching the release affects broad heads more than field points.

Bill

[Porter]

Mine is a single cam and I will now have to go and check everything again.  I'm thinking a good excuse for a newer bow   

Actually I love this bow and probably time for a new string...  I'm sure it has stretched big time!

[drenalinld]

New string, cables and fresh tune will probably have you back to bullseye. Don't shoot the new ones unless you want to buy. They are better!  I want one but my old one is very good!

[boxcaller]

Porter,...I have a different bows tuned and ready to hunt according to the temps. and the humidity.  20 to 30 degrees requires one bow with a certain broadhead,...30 to 46 degrees requires another bow and 46 to 63 requires a different bow also,...you must learn to shoot these bows all the same,...wear your hunting clothes according to the temps,...you should always take two bows with you to the tree in case the temps rise or fall and you can change your bow to increase your accuracy.  also wind direction will dictate which arrow and broadhead I take to the stand that night,...strong north winds require a different weight arrow and head,...east winds do not require the same.  If you want to be a real serious archer you MUST consider all of these things.......................but then again,...this was all a joke.      Just tune your bow up with a new string and shoot a lot!!...don't blame it on the heads they will all work if tuned properly.

[Porter]

Oh my I started to say.. holy cow you are the most intense archer I've ever seen!!!  I'll see how it shoots this weekend and I am about due for a new bow for sure

[GSLAM95]

Even a single cam bow will come out of time with string and cable stretch.  The original zebra strings on a Mathews are noted for it.  The materials most used are a spectra blend such as BCY 8125.  Note that this type of material does not give warning that it's ready to break like the old Dacron materials of years back which would break a strand or two when they were getting weak and letting you know it was time to change strings.
After reading your post it sounds as if you are due for a new string and cable set.  I suggest either Winners choice or Americas Best bow strings which both have a premium line with a one year guarantee against stretch and serving separation.  As drenalinld mentioned a properly tuned bow will put broadheads and field points in the same hole when properly tuned and good shooter form.
Perhaps it is time to look at some of the newer bows out today Porter but I warn you it will be hard not to turn loose the cash for a new one after shooting.  I am an ELITE dealer and shoot the Hunter model.  A very forgiving bow that is 31 1/2" axle to axle with a very forgiving 7 3/4" brace height.  All the 2013 models for Elite have a Cerakote finish on the ecentrics, limb pockets, cable & string suppressor rods.
The only company out there with a "hunt guarantee" and lifetime transferable warranty.  I highly recommend shooting at least 3 different brand bows with comparable brace height and axle length set at your draw length before buying anything to see which feels best in your hand.  Good luck with whatever decision you make wether it a new string/cable and tune job or new bow.
Good luck hunting....John

[etboxcalls]

Porter,
theres a lot of good info from the guys on here.  My suggestion is to do a couple of things.  First if your string & cables are more than 2 years old, I'd get them replaced.  Otherwise I'd go through the steps to tune your bow.  You may or may not want to paper tune your bow.  I've seen guys paper tuning and the tear can be different for 2 guys shooting the same exact bow because of grip, anchor point etc... can change the arrow flight, so it may show you some things, but not everything.  My suggestion would be a thorough walkback tuning and then broadhead tuning.  This will get your centershot on target for the field points then you can adjust accordingly for the broadheads.  I'm actually going to be doing this for my bow this weekend.  I noticed a little wobble in my arrow, nothing major, I was still hitting my spots out to 80 yds but any little thing bothers me so I had my bow guy take a look.  He made some very minor adjustments (as little as 1/32) that corrected the problem but it threw my arrows to the right about 2 inches.  I made the sight adjustments but now my broadheads are shooting a little low left So I'll be walkback tuning and then broadhead tuning the bow to get it back to spec.  I shoot about 200-400 shots/ week through my bow year round so it was bound to need a little tweaking before long.  Hope this helps.

Ed

[Porter]

Thanks guys.   We got her all lined up yesterday and I'm sitting in my blind now ready to shoot some turkeys!

Although scanning the horizon now and it appears I'm attracting the farmers horses at the moment   Oh and they tend to hate me 

[AlanKrow]

Porter,...I have a different bows tuned and ready to hunt according to the temps. and the humidity.  20 to 30 degrees requires one bow with a certain broadhead,...30 to 46 degrees requires another bow and 46 to 63 requires a different bow also,...you must learn to shoot these bows all the same,...wear your hunting clothes according to the temps,...you should always take two bows with you to the tree in case the temps rise or fall and you can change your bow to increase your accuracy.  also wind direction will dictate which arrow and broadhead I take to the stand that night,...strong north winds require a different weight arrow and head,...east winds do not require the same.  If you want to be a real serious archer you MUST consider all of these things.......................but then again,...this was all a joke.      Just tune your bow up with a new string and shoot a lot!!...don't blame it on the heads they will all work if tuned properly.

Hey Pat.. Good One..